Feeling festive.

It seems to be that we are in Italy at an interesting time. This weekend was Republic Day in Rome. This seemed to be somewhat like the 4th of July and Memorial day from what I could gather. Here is a little bit of information that was shared with us through Temple on the holiday:

June 2nd marks the birth of the Italian Republic (officially on June 2,

1946) a key event of Italian contemporary history. Until 1946, Italy was

officially a monarchy ruled by the House of Savoy, kings of Italy since the

Risorgimento. However, Benito Mussolini, enjoying the support of the

monarchy, imposed fascism after the October 28, 1922 March on Rome,

eventually engaging Italy in World War II alongside Nazi Germany.

In 1946, Italy became a republic after the results of a popular referendum.

A Constituent assembly was elected at the same time.

 

Saturday morning there was a parade in honor of this holiday. Many people from Temple weren’t interested in going since it was early in the morning and the subways shut down during and for awhile after it, but I’m glad that I went. The parade was probably one of the slowest and longest parades that I’ve ever been to (not to mention it was pretty uneventful), but it showed a wide range of military attire.

Getting to the parade seemed to be pretty easy. We left the residence around 8:30 and it was smooth sailing up until we got to the center of it. Here, it was a much different story. People were out in the early sun to see their parade. Everyone was lined up on the street behind guard rails to see the parade of the military and other important officials. We managed to push our way through the crowd to get a spot along the fence. Since we’ve been here I haven’t really much noticed the warning that Gianni gave us about Italians not understanding personal space…until then. Everyone was squeezing and if you stepped a toe out of your spot it was gone. It was exciting to see people so eager to see something. At first, I wasn’t sure if we missed it or not, there was a loud voice over a speaker and since I can’t understand Italian, I had no idea what he was announcing. We were worried we’d missed the whole shebang until we saw the first band. After it started, it continued for a long time. We watched uniform after uniform pass and each had it’s own personality to it. I’m not completely sure, but I believe that other countries were showcased in the parade as well. I made sure to snap some shots of the variety, however, it was somewhat difficult to get into a position that I could see clearly.

The two last photos are probably the most bizarre uniforms that we saw. The one with the skirt looking part to it was accompanied by an interesting march in which the me would swing one leg fast and stomp down. A little bit hard to explain, but the photo shows a little bit. The last one is a uniform that came equipped with skis and ski poles. They were also carrying huge backpacks which, accompanied by their bright, puffy white suits made them look somewhat like astronauts. If you’re ever in Italy around June 2, I definitely recommend checking out the parade. Even the seagulls circled to get a good view.

 

Exploring Rome

Wondering around the city is slowly, but surely becoming a lot more directed. It’s a nice feeling to recognize a place that I’ve passed before and even understand that I need to go right and not left. Sometimes these tiny streets like to play tricks on you. The best part is, that usually no matter which turn you make, you have the chance to discover something new and beautiful. This week has been somewhat uneventful so far because of all of the studio time at the school that I’ve had to put in. I haven’t been able to go out much so I’ll share some from last week and the weekend.

Walks at night are still my favorite part about the city. There’s something magical about walking around and stumbling upon a highlighted piece of history. I took a walk to the Trevi Fountain the other night where I found a whole crowd of people…literally…a huuuuge crowd. I don’t know if there is ever a time when there isn’t one, but I’m determined to find one. I like the thought of standing in front of it with less than 50 people there. When I visited it this weekend, there was probably around 500 people there. All sitting around it like a theater. It’s definitely an interesting view. One of my favorite parts were the men walking around selling things. They have these toys there that shoot up into the air and spin down to the ground. The interesting part about them is that they light up. When there are a few men walking around the square selling them at the same time, it looks like a shower of shooting stars falling around you. This may be my own dreamy take on these toys, but none the less, I found them beautiful. From the fountain, we traveled to the Pantheon. The Pantheon is an amazing place. Although you can’t enter it at night, it’s just as captivating outside. If you sit inside the columns holding up the “porch roof” as I like to call it, you can look up and watch the bats waking up and flying around. The noises it makes inside the columns is so interesting. I believe that everyone should experience it.

Another adventure that we took was clothing shopping. If you notice the style in Rome, you’ll notice that most people look like they could have just stepped out of a magazine. Everyone seems to look very groomed. It’s funny to be thrown into this when I’m usually the one that wakes up 15 minutes before I have to leave and stick my hair up with some pins. So we took a trip down to Zara. Zara is like a European version of h&m or Forever21. The clothing there are somewhat reasonably priced. Some are more than others, but they have a pretty wide selection of stuff for girls. Boys, not so much. The crazy thing about Zara is that it’s a four story building filled with clothing, and there are two or three more relatively close. Standing on the top level looking down gives you a pretty intense feeling.

Of course the trip wouldn’t come to a close without trying to find a good Italian dinner. Unfortunately this one was not the cat’s meow, so to say. My meal was pretty good. The pasta had a lot of seafood in it, which I loved. The second part was fried calamari and what I think was large shrimp, although I’m not completely sure. My boyfriend’s meal, however, turned out to be chicken strips and french fries. I found this pretty funny, but it really was not that good. The chicken seemed to just be warmed up, not grilled or baked or fried or anything, and the french fries were pretty far on the soggy side. But the wine was good and the company great, overall the night was a success.

Rome as a Classroom

View from Villa D’Este

 

Rome’s immense historical and cultural richness make it an ideal city for bustling tourists.  It is extremely common to pass large groups of people who are eager to see the sights following a tour group leader. Tour guides often brandish flags above their heads as they walk in order to be easily identifiable among the masses.  The beauty of Rome is impressionable in its own right, but gains a new depth once paired with facts and stories.  My first two weeks (which have flown by all too quickly) have brought the pleasant surprise that some of the best tour guides in Rome may just be Temple’s very own faculty.  There is no time spent watching the seconds tick in a lecture hall, as the classroom instead becomes the streets of Rome.  Though waking up early to get on site for classes is not necessarily my favorite part of the day, a shot of espresso and a croissant soon allow me to appreciate the sites that it is unlikely I would have discovered on my own.

I have really enjoyed how my classes, Rome Sketchbook and Photography, have allowed me to document my experiences in Rome thus far. Whether gesture drawing statues or focusing on piazzas through a lens, both classes have required me to slow down and truly take in everything I have the opportunity to see.   One of the first classes of Rome Sketchbook, the syllabus listed that we would be copying the works of masters. In order to do this, we were not copying from books or websites, but were actually able to see the originals of the works we were learning to reproduce.  I attempted to draw Caravaggio’s Judith Beheading Holofernes, a work I studied in my art history class at main campus a few years prior.  I have also really enjoyed gesture drawing at the Borghese Gardens.  I enjoy the urban life of Rome greatly, but am especially fond of the gorgeous parks that have a slower rhythm to them.  In Photography, we practice shooting in different light settings at the church Santa Maria del Popolo. We then moved on to street photography, made more interesting by the busy marketplace by Campo de Fiore and the painted street performers at Piazza Navona. We are learning about art and culture simultaneously and it has been very rewarding. It is very interesting to share work and see what classmates are being drawn to as they explore the city.  I feel it enables us to the see our surroundings in ways we might have ignored otherwise.  Copying works has also given me an even deeper respect for the masters and their approaches.

I have also been introduced to art culture I may not have encountered otherwise in extra class trips.  This week, we went to an American art Academy and Rhode Island School of Design’s galleries. It was wonderful to interact with artists and art lovers.  Today, my friend and I were especially drawn to a journal at the RISD exhibit and sought out the artist.  She recommended a popular gathering place for artists and showed us her street art. Without Temple’s faculty, such networking would not have been possible and it is refreshing to have instructors who are passionate and eager to share their connections.

First Impressions

Photo: Students enjoying an authentic, multiple-course meal in the beautiful Titignano castle after the Todi excursion

Considering my semester in Rome is my second senior semester at Temple University, I did not imagine I would have the opportunity to feel like a freshman again.   Arriving in Rome, however, I regressed to not knowing anyone and initiating conversations by asking names, hometowns, and majors.  Many students were running from apartment to apartment, eager to meet the classmates with whom they’ll be spending the next six weeks.  It is especially refreshing that everyone here is in the same boat and knows that friendliness is an important trait for adjusting to a new environment.  Shortly after arriving, students were scrambling around with new friends to find pizzerias, gelaterias, or the market.  What a relief it was to learn how accessible everything is from our residence!  Carrefour, the local supermarket, is only a few blocks away and it seemed to be temporarily taken over by Temple students the first day as we filled our carts with ripe produce, freshly baked bread, and other delicacies.   Should any of our needs be out of walking distance, we are also conveniently close to the Cipro Metro stop.

Whereas students may have been accustomed to dashing across the streets of Temple’s Main Philadelphia campus as they so please, it is important to be alert as a pedestrian in Rome.  Drivers seem to be on a mission and are unlikely to stop even at a crosswalk unless you establish eye contact with them in order to assert that do indeed intend to cross the street. It was noticeable almost immediately, however, that the smart cars just may be the most quickly paced aspect of Italian culture.  Whereas the cars and mopeds zoom through the hectic streets speedily, I found my strolls through the Italian streets to be extremely relaxing.  Even in a jetlagged state, it was pleasant to venture from the welcoming pizza party (a delicious occasion) to the Piazza del Popolo, Spanish Steps, and Trevi Fountain.  It did not seem at all a chore to walk back the residence after these destinations.  Perhaps I am only claiming this because I have the most supportive and comfortable walking sandals I have ever owned, but the overwhelmingly beautiful surroundings more than offset the distance we walk daily.

Still more leisurely than my strolls have been my Italian dining experiences.  Even though my picky vegetarian and limited dairy ways have excluded me from many of the local favorites, the dining atmospheres are rejuvenating enough!  The other night, a new friend and I enjoyed a six course meal at a restaurant we were told is a favorite for locals.  Despite not speaking Italian and the owners not speaking English, we were able to navigate smoothly through the three hour meal of blue cheese and spinach pizza, meats, fried pineapple and mashed potatoes, pasta, tiramisu… the list goes on!  This meal was a great practice round for the multiple course meal all of the students in the program enjoyed at the beautiful Titignano castle on the Todi excursion the next day.  It was a day of fine dining, breathtaking scenery, and good company for all and as Dean Strommen toasted to the next six weeks, I was truly struck by the reality of the astounding journey on which I have embarked.

Nuances of Roma

Following on the smell of honeysuckles, there are many other details of the city that are slowly coming into focus. Once the fear of being a recognizable American fades (let’s face it, once you speak people know anyway. They’re either nice or mean, either way you will most likely never see them again unless it’s somewhere you frequent) I felt a lot more comfortable just walking and thinking about where I am. Anywhere you go, you will most likely smell pizza, bread, some spaghetti, or other Italian specialties. This is one of the biggest differences from home. In Philadelphia especially, there is such a huge range of food specialties to choose from. In Italy, there’s a wide range of pretty similar stuff. I’m sure that I’ll unearth some more variety while I’m here, but thus far I’ve been finding the Italian cooking. It’s funny that even though this food is delicious, I still find myself craving a pulled pork sandwich. I’m sure I could find one here, but I feel like I don’t really want to waste a meal on something I’ll be eating again soon enough (although, we did stop for some Burger King fries and a drink two days ago. I know..I know…)

One of the best decisions that I’ve made so far since we’ve gotten here is to walk with no destination in mind. We started at the residence and moved to Vatican City, from there, I’m still trying to figure out where we went. We discovered some nice little back streets that led up to a beautiful tree covered area where we saw the sun go down behind the dome of St. Peter’s Basilica. It was nice because there weren’t many people around. It seemed to be a lot more of a true Italian section of the city. I like going to places like this, even though I feel like an outsider looking in. It’s nice to observe a different culture in their daily lives.

There are other pieces that keep popping up. Sometimes we’ll just be walking and I catch a colorful mess on the ground. There are some areas in the cobblestone where there’s left over confetti that’s stayed from the last celebration. I like to imagine what it was for and I see people in the streets throwing confetti on each other as their laughing and hugging. It’s funny how ripped up colored paper is such a happy thing.

We kept walking and it got darker and darker. Eventually we made our way down to the river and it was beautiful. The lights on the bridges lit up and reflected in the water. It was really amazing. From the side of the river, we could still see sections of the crumbling ruins, churches, and domes. There again, were not many people down there, though a surprisingly bigger amount of rats. I guess this could also count as observing things in their natural habitats. We did a lot of observing that night. The rats seemed to not really notice we were there.

Once we came to the end of our little journey, we had to find our way back. By this point it was late..and I was hungry. But I’d made a promise to myself to not spend anymore money that day. We started heading back and the brightly lit food trucks were like bug lamps. You can’t help but be drawn to them..until you realize that they’re most likely tourist traps and your spending 10 euro on a bag of chips and a drink. On the way back we found a park and sat in it for a little bit talking about the walk we’d taken. It was definitely a walk worth taking.

Bonjourno, Roma.

 

Upon first impression, Rome shocked me. It wasn’t what I was expecting at all. When we landed, I imagined it somewhat similarly to how it was, but when we entered the city area of Rome on the way to the residence, it was not how I expected. The cars were different. Much different than what I’m used to at home. It’s funny seeing tiny little cars swarming like bees instead of the big jacked up pickup trucks with their John Deere stickers on. Yes, the cars are much different than home. But the buildings and the shops and restaurants that we were passing were not what I expected. They looked so modern, so ordinary, so Philly. I felt like I could be driving through the Italian equivalent to China town. When we got to the residence, it was also not as I pictured. I feel like being prepared by others for Rome leaves images of colorful clothing lines on old, crumbling, beautiful buildings squished together on cobblestone streets. No. This is not Residence Medaglie d’Oro. The building looks like it was made around the Late 60′s or 70′s and the art inside the rooms supports that theory. When we got here we got our room keys and made our way to our rooms. I don’t really know what I was expecting for a room. I feel like I didn’t really have any ideas of what that would look like but I really like our apartment. There are two bedrooms with two beds in each and a wrap around balcony attached to one. Our bathroom is cute, not too big but not too small, and it has very calming lighting. The bathtub is the best part in my opinion. A little funny side note here…all of the bathrooms that I’ve been in in this building so far have bidets. Which are little toilet looking things that are intended to wash the bottom after using the toilet. Not so common back at home. Anyway. Our apartment is inviting and it gave me a sense of belonging after our small journey from the airport to the residence.

 

 

After a little break from the plane (it was now about 10 in Rome and 4 in the US) we decided to venture out and get food. I believe this was where I started to crumble. Walking down the streets, I felt like I hadn’t left the US. Everything seemed so similar, except for the fact that I could understand nothing. It’s funny how quickly I felt home sick. I didn’t expect it at all, but I think since everything seemed the same to me except for the language, I was disappointed and felt a little dumb.

 

This same feeling continued for a while..then we visited the Pantheon. I feel like that was one of those moments where everything seems to stop. It was like walking up on a dinosaur and just watching it. You can sense the age when you’re near the Pantheon. That’s when I started to understand Rome a little bit more. Rome seems to me more to be a city of mixed ages. There are many different sections and it’s a complicated place. I want to learn more about it and really understand it by the time I leave. This may or may not happen, but I’ll try. One thing that I find comforting about the city is a few smells that repeat. I smell honeysuckle almost everywhere I walk and I know that I can look up and see vines of it covering walls and fences. I think they’re part of my favorite thing about Rome right now.

 

Ciao for now, Roma!

It’s official- I’ve completed my semester abroad at Temple Rome! It feels so good to say that/ I worked so hard this past semester and learned so much. However, I’m experiencing a lot of mixed emotions right now.

It’s appropriate to say that my thoughts about leaving Rome are bittersweet. “Sweet,” because I’m heading back to the States soon, and I can be reunited with my friends and family (my dogs too, of course). I’m also looking forward for things to go back to normal. I’ve missed the small things, like my bed, American television, driving around in my Jeep, Mexican food and everyone speaking English!

But there’s also a lot of “bitter.” My study abroad experience will always be just a small moment in my life and I will always look back on it. Now, I’m still living this moment, and soon it will all become one big memory. My time here in Rome was such a positive experience, and I feel like a completely new person. I have a different outlook on life and culture, and I’ve learned an incredible amount, in and out of the classroom. One important thing I’ve learned is to have a little more faith in strangers. The Italian people taught me this with their kindness and patience. I also now know that I’m capable of doing anything that life throws at me. Moving yourself to an unfamiliar place for three and a half months is not an easy thing to do!

It’s unbelievable that I’m leaving Rome tomorrow night. Reflecting on the past semester, I can remember how I felt when I left New York for Rome. I specifically remember how I was feeling my first night here: scared, intimidated, and homesick. Now, I can already feel “Romesick” and I haven’t even left yet! But I will also leave with my new-found confidence and maturity.

To give my final farewell to Rome, I went to the top of the dome at St. Peter’s Basilica this past week. I walked up hundreds of stairs with my two friends to see the most amazing view of the city that changed me forever. It was a beautiful Wednesday afternoon, and I could see everything: the Colosseum, the Pantheon, the Tiber River, the Borghese Gardens. As I was enjoying the view, I overheard a woman say to her friend: “If you lived in this city, wouldn’t you have peace of mind?” This just made me smile, because I know that my experience proved this statement true.

I’m not heading back to America until a few weeks from now. I’ll be in Scotland for a week, and then my mom is flying over! We’ll be traveling around Scotland, Amsterdam and London for ten days, and I couldn’t be more excited. What a great way to end my time abroad.

Today and tomorrow will be spent packing up all my stuff and enjoying as much as Rome as possible. I threw my coin into the Trevi Fountain, so I have no doubt that I will be back again. Ciao, Roma!

TU Rome Student Show

I’ve mentioned in previous posts how hard I’ve been working all semester, and this is the same for all my fellow classmates here at Temple Rome. On Thursday night, we were all able to show off our hard work at the Student Show. Every student who was enrolled in an art or architecture course displayed their work for the rest of the school to see. The show was not only held in the school gallery, but throughout the whole school. The students produced such a large amount of work, that the show went from the basement to the top floor of the building, and every inch of the walls were covered.

I was really impressed with all the work that had been created throughout the course of the semester. The photography classes, both digital and black and white film, had tons of prints covering the walls from top to bottom. There were paintings done in many different mediums, including oil and watercolor, and in many different sizes- some as small as the palm of my hand and others almost as big as the wall! The printmaking classes showed their etchings and lineoleum prints, and downstairs the sculpture students displayed their large variety of work. Upstairs I could see the work of all the Rome sketchbook students, and I could sit and flip through the pages of each student’s individual sketchbook. Also upstairs was the postcard show, where each student in certain classes had to create a painting, drawing, or print on a 5″x7″ piece of paper. This part of the show will actually be coming to the Tyler School of Art in Philadelphia later this year!

This semester I was in Painting on Paper, the watercolor course, and Photography I, a black and white film class. I enjoyed each class tremendously, and was very proud of the work I had in the show. I really appreciated the amount of freedom I was given in each class to create whatever I wanted to. Also, both classes took me outside the classroom and into the beautiful city of Rome to paint and to take photographs. Now I have to find a way to bring all my hard work back to America with me!

The student show was a great way to celebrate the last day of classes and the end of the semester. It’s really starting to hit me- I’m leaving Rome a week from today. Next Saturday at this time I’ll be packing up everything I have and saying a final “ciao” to Rome. I can’t believe how fast this semester flew by. This upcoming week, I’ll be very busy studying for my two art history finals, and doing my last sight-seeing. But this is not good-bye yet, my fellow blog readers! Even though I have a lot of studying to do in the week to come, I still plan on blogging at least one more time. I would never take my last week in Rome for granted.

So much gelato, so little time.

Somehow, yesterday was already the last day of classes for the Temple Rome Spring 2012 semester program. I’m not quite sure how that is possible already, but these last few months have managed to fly by and we are quickly approaching the end of our time in Rome. Yesterday was also the final student art show which had on display the artwork from the various studio classes that the students had worked on for the entire semester. It was a great show. Not only were all the works very impressive, but it was fantastic seeing how Rome inspired so much of the art. Looking at pieces was nostalgic as it brought back memories from earlier in the semester, but was paired with the knowledge that we are all leaving so soon.

There is truly an odd mixture of emotions that everyone is feeling, a mix between excitement, sadness, nostalgia and stress. There is excitement to be going home to family and friends (and especially pets) that are greatly missed, yet a sadness and nostalgia about leaving this amazing city behind, not  knowing when we might return again. For those that are not going home right away, but are instead traveling around Italy and Europe, there is excitement for the new adventure they are about to set off on, but stress about where exactly they are going to go and what their living arrangements will be. Then add on the stress of final exams and one has an interesting range of emotions flowing through them.

Regardless of where people are going after April 22^nd, everyone is trying to take in as much of Rome as possible. This means taking walks just for the sake of being in the city, eating gelato every day since it is so much cheaper here and soon will not be accessible on every street corner, trying every pastry in the 24 Hour Bakery (located on the way to school, a dangerous situation!), or simply sitting next to the Coliseum at night to take in its beauty and the fact that Rome was our home for all this time. Over the next week of finals, in addition to studying of course, I will be making my last visits to my favorite places in Rome: the small outdoor markets I love to find on random side streets, the Pantheon, the Spanish Steps, the cat sanctuary, and the quiet park outside of the Castle Saint Angelo.

I will also try to eat at some of the restaurants that are still on my list (there are a lot!). I know I will not make it to all of them, but I will take the time to enjoy the total experience of dining in Rome and the Italian food culture that has grown to be a part of Italy that I truly appreciate. I’d better get to it.

Jammin’ at Temple Rome

For the past couple of weeks, everyone at Temple Rome has been experiencing a stressful workload. Papers, presentations, and projects galore, and now finals are slowly approaching. It’s so hard to believe that the semester is almost over- only two weeks left!

But last night, the school held an event to take everyone’s minds off the chaos of school. And thank goodness for that, because lately I’ve been so overwhelmed. For the past few weeks, students have been preparing for the Temple University Rome Jam Session, which was being promoted all over the school with creative flyers. Also, I had been hearing people practicing drums and guitar, and even ukulele; This got me even more interested in what the Jam Session would be like.

I was really impressed to see that the school brought in lighting, a projector, and a stage for the event. All the students were invited to the show, as well as faculty and professors, and even some local Italians. It was exciting to see how many people showed up; there were probably about 150 of us!

Lucky for me I had a front row seat, so I got to see everything up close. The Jam Session was hosted by Gianni, our Student Affairs Coordinator, who kept the audience laughing and upbeat the whole show. There were many short clips and videos that were projected in between acts, which were very entertaining and fun to watch. Aside from lots of singing, dancing, and instrumentals by students, there were also plenty of acts from local Romans. I got to hear some incredible vocals and even a comedy act! The Jam Session was very well organized, and at the end there were even refreshments. I thought this was a great way to integrate the students with the community that surrounds our school.

The show lasted about two and a half hours and never had a dull moment. Everyone was clapping, cheering, and laughing throughout the entire Jam Session. It was great for everyone to come together, put all of our work aside for one night, and just relax and enjoy ourselves. It made me really happy to be a part of Temple Rome, and I almost felt a little sad. I know that in only a couple of weeks, the program will be over and everyone will be traveling and heading home. I really got to know a lot of people this semester and made a ton of new friends. Temple University Rome is truly a community of people.

So now I’m feeling refreshed and ready to conquer my upcoming finals. I am, however, more than excited for the weekend. I’ll be traveling to Scotland to visit my boyfriend and relax before the mayhem of finals fully kicks in!